It can be used for belaying, rappeling, and belaying from the top of a pitch. This ATC stands to be one of the most commonly used devices for outdoor climbing. The ATC Guide is hands down one of the best devices on the market. Plaqauette loop to belay climbers from above. And only weighs 64 grams! The extra friction is well worth the four grams of added weight. The device still handles ropes of 7.7mm to 11mm diameter. Personally, this is my favorite device to give to beginners. This high friction mode offers a 3X increase in holding and stopping power. It provides rappeling and belaying functionality, but it comes with a teeth side that lets you use the device in “high friction mode”. The Black Diamond ATC XP is similar to the original ATC. Does not have a plaquette loop for belaying from above.Extra teeth for high friction mode for belaying and rappelling.The best part is that this device only weighs 60 grams, practically nothing and you’ll be able to belay and rappel with it. It can handle ropes from a diameter of 7.7mm to 11mm. It is the original model and has beauty in its simplicity. The Black Diamond ATC Belay Device is the original ATC. Does not have extra teeth for high friction mode.Can’t be used for belaying from above.This is just a fancy way to say that we can belay a climber off an anchor with an auto blocker in place. This belay device comes with the ability to be used in “plaquette mode”. I highly recommend purchasing the ATC Guide. If you are just starting out with climbing, but think that you might eventually climb outdoors. Right now, Black Diamond makes a few different types of the ATC. Black Diamond belay devices with a Petzl Reverso that snuck in! Types of ATC Devices And that backup is proper belay technique. What if we are using an assisted braking device that happens to fail? We need a backup. Learning proper belay technique is crucial when learning how to climb and how to belay. We use these ATC devices because they make belaying easier by creating friction.Īn ATC needs to be clipped into the harness with a locking carabiner, the rope then runs through the bottom of the device, around the carabiner, and then back out through the top of the device.Īn ATC won’t have all of the bells and whistles like an assisted braking device, but it’s extremely worthwhile for a beginner to use an ATC. Tube style belay devices are one of the most common styles for belay devices in rock climbing today. What other types of belay devices are there?.
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